|
Hand tools
Boring tools
Chisels
Files
Gouges
Grinding tools
Hammering tools
Holding tools (other)
Knives
Layout tools
Micrometer calipers
Planes
Pliers
Saws
Screwdrivers
Sloyd knives
Steel scale
Vernier calipers
Vises
Wire gages
Metalworking
Cutting threads
Drilling
Filing
Hacksawing
Layout metalworking
Nuts & bolts
Riveting
Woodworking
Bolting woodwork
Cutting woodwork
Finishing woodwork
Glueing woodwork
Jointing woodwork
Layout & testing
Layout, using paterns
Lumber & lumbering
Measuring with rule
Nails for woodwork
Painting wood
Screws woodwork
Shaping woodwork
Structure of wood
Try square usage
Moretofollow
|
The sloyd knife is a layout tool involving
the use of the point. The shank of the blade passes through the ferrule
and into the handle where it is pinned in place with a rivet. In use,
it should be held almost perpendicular to the surface on which the line
is to be scribed, with the sharp edge facing in the direction in which
the line is to be scribed.
 |
A straightedge or trysquare
is used to guide the knife. It must be held securely against the
stock, and the blade of the knife must be kept in contact with the
straightedge or try-square.
When scribing lines with the grain
the knife will have a tendency to follow the grain, pulling away
from the straightedge or pushing the straightedge away from the
reference marks which locate the position of the line. This difficulty
can be avoided by scribing the line lightly at first, and if necessary
going over it a second time to deepen the cut.
Keep your fingers away from the edge
of the tool or the knife may slice off the tip of your fingers as
it passes them.
|
A knife must be kept sharp if it is to do
the work expected of it. Sharpening a knife consists of three operations:
removing nicks, rebeveling, and honing. It is not always necessary to
do all three. Nicks that are large enough to be visible must be removed
on the grindstone.
This is done by laying the blade flat on
the tool rest, with the edge of the blade resting squarely against the
stone. The edge of the blade should be pressed lightly against the stone
and then drawn slowly and evenly across the stone; repeat the operation
until all nicks have been removed. This flattens the cutting edge, and
must be followed by regrinding the bevel.
 |
The rebeveling of the
knife is done on the grindstone. The grinding should be done on
both sides of the blade. Place the knife on the stone with the bevel
in contact with the face of the stone, holding it at the same angle
throughout the entire grinding operation.
Move the knife slowly across the face
of the stone, from side to side, then turn it over and repeat the
operation to grind the bevel on the other side. Care must be taken
not to burn the tool. This can be prevented by using only a light
pressure on the knife on the stone and by removing the knife from
the stone and dipping it in water to cool the blade.
Honing should be done on an oilstone.
If a knife is quite dull but does not need rebeveling, honing should
be started on a coarse stone. Place the knife on the stone with
the bevel in contact with the stone.
|
Apply pressure to the blade on the pushing
stroke. When the blade is turned over, apply pressure on the pulling stroke.
Continue this operation on the edge appears. The wire edge is worked off
on a fine oilstone.
After rebeveling in which the wire edge
appears, the use of a coarse oilstone can be dispensed with and the work
of removing the wire edge can be done on the fine oilstone.
|